Sure, on initial glance you might think you’ve turned into a Transformer, and you also might scare your bedfellow or couchmate in the process, but there’s no denying the influx of LED masks on the market. They’re everywhere. So it was high time we looked into it, and what exactly LED masks do, plus their touted benefits.And spoiler, yes, as it turns out they do indeed boast some fabulous advantages, if used correctly for your skin type.
A bit of history about LED masks
The history of how LED came into the skincare and cosmetic medical space is interesting. Light therapy was originally developed by NASA for growing plants and healing wounds in space. Leveraging this technology, these lights were brought into the medical world and the therapy of low-level wavelengths of red or near-infrared light (or both) were used to treat the face or body.
How does it work?
“LED phototherapy uses lights that penetrate the skin at different depths to help target all kinds of skin concerns,” says aesthetic doctor Lauren Hamilton. The treatment is non-invasive and suitable for all skin types, though it’s worth seeking medical advice if you have a known skin condition, such as eczema or psoriasis.Light alters the skin in a process that’s called photobiomodulation and, just as UV rays from the sun can be harmful, some wavelengths of visible light alter skin for the better. This is the goal of LED masks, which emit visible wavelengths of light that sit between 400 and 700 nanometers on the electromagnetic spectrum, with the colours that sit at the higher end penetrating the skin the most deeply.
Different types of LED mask wavelengths
Dr Prasanthi Purusothaman – or Dr P – points out that there are three most studied wavelengths when it comes to LED. Blue light sits around the 400 mark and its antibacterial properties make it useful as an acne treatment; red light penetrates deeper into the skin to boost collagen production by increasing blood circulation, as well as reduce inflammation by stimulating the skin’s mitochondria, and infrared light starts at 700 on the spectrum, meaning it penetrates the deepest.Here, a little more detail on the three different LED mask wavelengths.
- RED optimal wavelength 633 nm: This wavelength is able to reach the dermis activating fibroblasts, increasing fibroblast growth factor expression as type 1 procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9), possible tyrosinase inactivation (to aid hyperpigmentation in the right energy settings).
- NEAR INFRARED optimal wavelength 830 nm: Best for wound healing, anti-inflammatory benefits, evening out skin tone. It promotes an increase in the flow of Ca++, Na+ and K+ ions, important in stimulating the release of chemical mediators such as endorphins, encephalins and bradykinin inhibition, as well as the activity of C fibres conducting painful stimuli, leading to an analgesic effect i.e. pain modulation. May influence muscular tone and improve skin hydration through interaction with aquaporins on the skin.
- BLUE optimal wavelength 415 nm: This one boasts anti microbial properties, effective for treating inflammatory acne through destruction of C Acnes bacterial porphyrins leading to cell death.
What are the benefits of LED masks?
Dr P explains that LED masks can provide a wealth of benefits irrespective of age, tone, texture and underlying skin sensitivities. “This is owing to its anti inflammatory and wound healing advantages as well as capacity with regular use to stimulate collagen, which all skin can benefit from.”“The best part, is that it is atraumatic, unlike a lot of treatments such as lasers, radiofrequency microneedling and more, which means the known potential severe side effects of traumatic skin rejuvenation procedures, such as inflammation, unpleasant pain, and prolonged social down time, are absent.” We love to hear that.
Can I use an LED mask if I have rosacea or melasma?
The skin types that suffer with issues pertaining to heat triggering inflammation (rosacea, melasma), can still safely use LED masks however the settings (wavelengths, irradiation, fluence, duration of use) may be different to reduce any risks associated with overheating (redness and flushing, pigmentation).For example, melasma sufferers or those prone to hyperpigmentation (darker skin tones) should avoid blue light therapy (which is beneficial for acne prone skin) as this can trigger opsins in melanocytes (our pigment producing cells) that have been shown to activate more melanin production. Similarly, irradiance settings of LED may need to be lower in melasma and rosacea patients to reduce excess heat production in the skin which can also trigger hyperpigmentation or unwanted redness.
Which products should you use alongside LED masks?
Dr P suggests using a mask in the evening, but of course if the desire springs to use it in the morning, by all means do so. Before masking up, she recommends a good double cleanse in the evening to remove makeup, dirt and pollution. And ideally use it on bare skin. Follow the mask treatment with your usual AM/PM routine.If you are using it in the AM, you could opt for anti inflammatory Niacinamide, or a Vitamin C afterwards, followed by moisturiser and broad spectrum sunscreen. In the PM use a hydrating serum or active skincare based on your skin concerns (retinoids, AHA/BHA) followed by a thicker moisturiser.
The four best LED masks
To each their own, here, but Dr P highly recommends the below four masks if you’re entering, or wanting to up your game, in the LED world. And remember, if you have any skin concerns in particular, it’s best to see your GP or derm first.
San Lueur
This at-home LED light therapy facial mask is sleek, chic, and will have your skin glowing. Highly effective and clinically approved blue, red, and near-infrared light wavelengths reach your skin at optimal depths to promote a clarified, smooth, and gloriously glowing complexion. Better yet, this mask is soft and flexible and made from premium silicon. No clunkiness here, so it’s suitable for trips away. Get addicted and fear not when it comes to stowing it away in your luggage. The clincher? This is the world’s first LED mask that delivers all three types of clinically approved wavelengths. *Adds to cart*
TheraBody Face Mask
This mask is FDA cleared, delivering full-face Red, Red + Infrared, and Blue LED light treatments with added tension-relieving vibration therapy. Clinical studies have shown smoother, firmer and healthier-looking skin in just 8 weeks. This model also boasts full-face treatment and coverage, and you can treat your skin in just 9 minutes. Or select a quick 3-minute treatment for specific skin concerns.
Airyday
Is there anything Airyday can’t do? Their LED face mask emits 3 clinically proven wavelengths (blue, red and near-infrared) to help reduce pigmentation, address ageing and rejuvenate the skin. It also improves texture and tone with its ultimate 10-minute treatment.
Dr Dennis Gross
This FDA-approved light mask is designed for full-face coverage, and boasts a combination of 100 red light emitting diodes in red mode and 60 blue light emitting diodes in blue mode that work together to boost that glorious collagen we so love. It also tackles fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration and acne.Women’s Health may earn commission from the links on this page, but we only feature products we believe in.
